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When compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.